How to Make Ceramic Wall Tiles by Hand

Creating your own ceramic wall tiles is a deeply rewarding journey that transforms raw earth into functional art for your home. It allows you to customize every aspect of your space, from the texture and color to the specific size needed for a backsplash or feature wall, giving your interior design a truly personal touch that mass-produced options simply cannot match.

While the process requires patience and attention to detail, the satisfaction of installing tiles you crafted with your own hands is incomparable and adds lasting value to your property. By learning the fundamental techniques of wedging, rolling, cutting, and glazing, you can produce professional-quality ceramics that reflect your unique creative vision and stand the test of time. In this guide on how to make ceramic wall tiles by hand, we will walk you through the steps and materials you need to create beautiful and functional tiles that will elevate any space.

Tools and Materials You’ll Need

To make your own ceramic wall tiles, you will need a few key supplies and tools. These can be purchased from any pottery supply store or online retailer.

Clay

The most important material you will need is clay. Clay comes in many different types, colors, and textures, so choose one that fits your project and budget. Some popular options include white earthenware clay for a smooth and versatile surface, stoneware clay for durability and strength, or porcelain clay for a delicate and refined finish.

Rolling Pin

A rolling pin is essential for flattening out your clay evenly to the desired thickness. You can use any type of rolling pin, but a wooden one with tapered ends tends to work best for pottery projects. If you don’t have a rolling pin, you can also use a smooth cylindrical object like a glass bottle or PVC pipe.

Cutting Tools

To shape and cut your clay, you will need some basic tools such as a sharp knife, a wire cutter, and a pottery rib. These tools are used for trimming excess clay, cutting out shapes, and adding texture to the surface of your project.

8 Simple Step-By-Step Guidelines on How to Make Ceramic Wall Tiles by Hand

Step 1: Preparation and Wedging the Clay

Before you even think about rolling out a slab, the most critical step is preparing your clay body through a process called wedging. Wedging is essentially kneading the clay to remove air pockets and ensure the moisture content is perfectly consistent throughout the entire lump. If you skip this or rush through it, you risk having trapped air bubbles that can cause your tiles to explode in the kiln, or uneven density that leads to severe warping during the drying and firing stages. You want to push the clay against a plaster or canvas surface, rotating it rhythmically until it feels smooth, pliable, and uniform under your hands.

This stage is also the perfect time to evaluate if your clay is the right consistency for tile making. It should be soft enough to roll out easily without cracking at the edges, yet firm enough to hold its shape when handled. If the clay is too sticky, wedge it on a plaster bat to absorb excess moisture; if it is too dry and cracking, you may need to incorporate a small amount of water or choose a fresh bag. Taking ten minutes to properly wedge your clay sets the foundation for the entire project, ensuring that the structural integrity of your tiles is sound before you invest hours into shaping and decorating them.

Step 2: Rolling Out the Slab

Once your clay is wedged, place it on a piece of canvas or a specialized slab mat to begin the rolling process. It is absolutely vital to use thickness strips or wooden guide rails on either side of your clay lump to support your rolling pin. These guides ensure that every millimeter of your slab is exactly the same thickness, typically around 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch for wall tiles. If your pressure is uneven or you don’t use guides, one side of the tile will be thinner than the other, which guarantees that the tile will warp, curl, or crack as the thinner sections dry faster than the thicker ones.

As you roll the clay, make sure to lift the slab periodically and flip it over gently onto the canvas. This prevents the clay from sticking to the surface and stretching awkwardly, which acts as a “memory” in the clay particle structure that can come back to haunt you later in the kiln. Roll from the center outwards with steady, firm pressure, checking your clay frequently to ensure the surface is smooth and free of deep canvas textures unless that is the look you are going for. Compressing the slab on both sides with a rubber rib tool after rolling is also highly recommended, as it aligns the clay particles and creates a stronger, smoother surface for your future glaze.

Step 3: Adding Texture and Design Elements

Now that you have a smooth, uniform slab, you have a brief window of opportunity to add texture before cutting your final shapes. This is the creative phase where you can press lace, stamps, leaves, or textured rollers into the soft clay to create intricate patterns that will later catch the glaze beautifully. If you plan to add texture, do it now rather than after cutting, because the pressure of stamping can deform the precise straight edges of a cut tile. Be mindful of how deep you press; going too deep can create weak points in the tile, while going too shallow might get lost under a thick layer of glaze later on.

If you prefer a smooth, modern look, you can skip the texture and focus on polishing the surface with a soft rib or a damp sponge to remove any imperfections. However, many ceramicists find that a slight texture helps hide minor surface flaws and adds depth to the installation. If you are painting a design with underglazes, you can also apply them at this “leather hard” stage or wait until the bisque fire, but applying structural texture must happen while the clay is plastic. Take your time here to experiment with different household items to create unique reliefs that will make your wall truly one-of-a-kind.

Step 4: Measuring and Cutting the Tiles

Cutting your tiles requires precision and an understanding of clay shrinkage. All clay shrinks during drying and firing—typically between 10% and 15%—so if you need a specific final dimension, you must calculate the shrinkage rate of your specific clay body and cut your tiles larger to compensate. Using a tile cutter (similar to a cookie cutter) is the easiest way to get uniform shapes, but a ruler and a sharp fettling knife work perfectly for custom geometric sizes. Press your cutter firmly into the slab, or drag your knife along your straight edge, keeping the blade perpendicular to the table to avoid beveled edges that make grouting difficult.

After you make your cuts, do not try to lift the tiles immediately if the clay is still very soft, as this can distort their shape. Instead, remove the excess clay from around the tiles and let them sit for a short while to firm up slightly. Once they are manageable, gently lift them and smooth the sharp edges with your finger or a damp sponge. Sharp edges can become incredibly razor-like after firing, so softening them now is a safety measure as well as an aesthetic choice. This attention to the edges gives the final product a refined, professional look that distinguishes high-quality handmade tiles from amateur attempts.

Step 5: The Critical Slow Drying Process

The drying phase is where most handmade tiles are lost to warping or cracking, so it must be managed with extreme patience. Tiles warp because moisture leaves the edges faster than the center, causing the clay to curl upward. To prevent this, you should sandwich your tiles between two pieces of drywall (sheetrock) or raw wood boards. The drywall absorbs moisture evenly from both the top and bottom faces of the tile, keeping them perfectly flat as they dry. If you don’t have drywall, you can place them on a wire rack and cover them loosely with plastic to slow down the evaporation process.

Check on your tiles daily, flipping them over if you aren’t using the drywall sandwich method, to ensure both sides get air exposure. This drying process should be slow—taking anywhere from a few days to two weeks, depending on humidity—until the tiles are “bone dry.” Bone dry clay is pale, room temperature to the touch (not cold), and very fragile. Rushing this step with heat guns or sunlight will almost certainly result in disaster. Only when the tiles are completely devoid of physical moisture are they ready to face the intense heat of the kiln.

Step 6: The Bisque Firing

Once your tiles are bone dry, they undergo their first firing, known as the bisque fire. You will load them into the kiln carefully; at this stage, tiles can be stacked on top of each other or leaned against one another because they will not stick together. The kiln is programmed to rise in temperature very slowly at first to drive off any remaining chemical water inside the clay structure. If the temperature rises too fast, steam can build up inside the clay and cause the tiles to explode, potentially damaging the kiln elements and other work.

The bisque firing typically reaches temperatures around 1800°F (Cone 04 to 06), transforming the fragile, dried earth into ceramic material. This process burns out organic materials and hardens the clay, yet leaves it porous enough to absorb glaze later. After the kiln completes its cycle and cools down—a process that usually takes about 24 hours—you will unload the tiles. They will now be hard, durable, and pinkish or white in color. Inspect them for any cracks that opened up during firing; cracked tiles should be discarded now, as glazing them won’t fix the structural flaw.

Step 7: Glazing and Decorating

Glazing is where your tiles truly come to life, adding color, waterproofing, and durability. Before applying glaze, wipe each bisque tile with a damp sponge to remove any kiln dust, which can cause the glaze to crawl or flake off. You can apply glaze by brushing, dipping, or pouring. Dipping is often the best method for tiles as it creates a very even, smooth coating. Hold the tile by the edges and dip it swiftly into the glaze bucket, shaking off the excess droplets. If you are brushing, use a wide, soft brush and apply multiple coats in alternating directions to avoid visible brushstrokes.

It is absolutely crucial to keep the bottom and the sides of the tile free of glaze. Glaze turns into molten glass in the kiln, and if any is on the bottom, the tile will fuse permanently to the kiln shelf, ruining both. You can use a wax resist on the bottom and sides before glazing; the wax repels the glaze, making cleanup easy. Simply brush the wax on the areas you want to stay bare, let it dry, and then apply your glaze. Once the glaze is dry, double-check the edges and wipe away any stray drips with a sponge to ensure a clean firing.

Step 8: The Glaze Firing

The final step is the glaze firing, which matures the clay to its full strength and melts the glaze into a glass-like surface. Unlike the bisque fire, tiles cannot touch each other during this firing because the molten glaze will weld them together. You must place each tile individually on the kiln shelf, leaving a small gap between them for heat circulation. This firing usually goes to a higher temperature than the bisque fire, often Cone 5 or 6 for stoneware (around 2200°F), depending on your specific clay and glaze recipe.

During this firing, the clay particles vitrify, meaning they become non-porous and watertight, while the glaze interacts chemically with the clay body to create the final color and texture. Once the kiln has fired and cooled completely—never open a hot kiln as the thermal shock can crack the glaze—you can open it to reveal your finished treasures. The transformation is magical; dull, powdery surfaces will have turned into glossy, vibrant, hard ceramic. After unloading, you may need to sand the bottoms slightly if they are rough, and then your handmade tiles are ready for installation.

Following these steps on how to make ceramic wall tiles by hand is just the beginning of your journey into the world of ceramics. There are endless possibilities for experimenting with different techniques, designs, and glazes to create truly unique and personal pieces. With practice and patience, you can master the art of making handmade ceramic tiles and add a touch of beauty and creativity to any space.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

The most frequent error beginners make is rushing the drying process, which inevitably leads to warped or curled tiles that are impossible to install flat against a wall. Another common pitfall is rolling the clay to uneven thicknesses, creating weak spots that crack during firing.

Failing to wipe the kiln dust off bisque ware before glazing often results in pinholes or crawling where the glaze pulls away from the clay. Finally, applying glaze too thickly can cause it to run off the tile and ruin your kiln shelves.

Do You Need To Use Professionals?

For the actual creation of the tiles, you likely do not need a professional if you have access to a kiln and some basic patience; it is a very accessible craft for DIY enthusiasts. However, when it comes to the installation of handmade tiles, hiring a professional tiler might be worth the investment. Handmade tiles are often slightly irregular in shape and thickness, making them significantly harder to grout and set level compared to factory-made tiles.

A professional tiler knows how to “butter” the back of uneven tiles to ensure they sit flush and how to adjust grout lines to hide slight size variations visually. If you have invested weeks into making the tiles, spending money on professional installation ensures the final result looks polished rather than messy.

How Much Will It Cost?

Making tiles by hand can be cost-effective, but the initial setup has a price tag. A 25-pound bag of clay costs roughly $15 to $30 and can make several square feet of tile, making the material cost very low. However, if you do not own a kiln (which costs $1,000+), you will need to pay a local studio for firing services, which usually charges by the shelf or cubic foot—expect to pay $20 to $50 per firing load.

Glazes can range from $15 to $30 per pint. Basic hand tools are cheap, totaling perhaps $50. Overall, doing it yourself is cheaper than buying high-end artisanal tiles (which can cost $50-$100/sq ft), but more expensive than buying generic hardware store tiles.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q1: What Is The Best Clay For Tiles?

The best clay for making tiles is usually a stoneware clay body that contains “grog” or sand. Grog creates an open structure in the clay that allows moisture to escape more easily and provides “tooth,” which significantly reduces the shrinking and warping that flat tiles are prone to. Avoid porcelain for your first project as it is very finicky and warps easily. A mid-fire stoneware (Cone 5-6) is ideal because it becomes very durable and waterproof without requiring extremely high industrial temperatures.

Q2: Can I Make Tiles Without A Kiln?

You can make “tiles” without a kiln using air-dry clay or polymer clay, but these are strictly for decorative, non-functional purposes and cannot be used in wet areas like showers or kitchen backsplashes. True ceramic tiles require firing to over 1800°F to become waterproof and durable enough for home installation. If you use air-dry clay for a wall hanging, seal it with a strong acrylic sealer, but understand it will not have the longevity or water resistance of real ceramic.

Q3: How Do I Calculate Shrinkage?

To calculate shrinkage, make a test tile from your clay and mark a line exactly 10 centimeters long on it while it is wet. After drying and glaze firing the tile, measure that line again; if it now measures 9 centimeters, your clay has a 10% shrinkage rate. To get a specific final size, you divide your desired size by (1 – shrinkage percentage). For example, if you want a 4-inch tile and have 10% shrinkage, you calculate 4 ÷ 0.90 = 4.44 inches. You should cut your wet clay to that calculated size.

Q4: Why Did My Tiles Crack While Drying?

Tiles usually crack while drying because of uneven stress caused by one part of the tile drying faster than another. If the edges dry out and shrink while the center is still wet, the tension pulls the clay apart. To stop this, dry your tiles slowly away from drafts, direct sunlight, or heat vents. Using the “drywall sandwich” method described in the steps is the best prevention, as it ensures moisture leaves the tile at a consistent rate from all surfaces simultaneously.

Conclusion

Making your own ceramic wall tiles is a labor of love that blends technical skill with artistic expression. While it requires careful attention to moisture control and firing schedules, the ability to create a completely custom surface for your home is a unique privilege.

By following these guidelines on how to make ceramic wall tiles by hand and respecting the limitations of the material, you can successfully craft beautiful, durable tiles that tell a story every time you walk into the room. Whether you make a small accent row or a full kitchen backsplash, the pride of seeing your handiwork on the wall is the ultimate reward.